Day 31 (1 Dec) Upper Mangatawhiri Campsite to Podge's Place, Mercer (TA 713)- 25.5km (18 walked)

Majella had the shakes badly last night. I think it was scaring her. I asked her if she needed me to get help, she said no and then later said she was OK. Thank goodness. Am feeling the weight of responsibility - I know ultimately it was her choice to come, but the trail can be tough and she is feeling it. The problem is that I can't make it not steep or hot or muddy or slippery or long. Sometimes there are no short cuts, sometimes you just have to proceed, one careful, exhausted step after another.

The road to start was flat and very pretty and we made good time. The track to the summit was very steep as expected, it was a little muddy in places but not to bad until we got to the 'cliff' - a steep slippery wall of clay with no foot holds.  It was darn near impossible to get up - I was trying to go up the side and use the trees to support my climb, but kept slipping. Once you started slipping you didn't stop - I slid all the way to the bottom at least 3 times. I finally managed to get it all together and got up. Went back, took Majellas pack and helped her up by using her hiking poles to pull her up.

Thankfully that was the worst of it a despite our fears. The track was rooty, and you had to take on the supple jack, but it was no where near as muddy as yesterday's track. It was actually a beautiful forest and it would have been fun to do it with a day pack and fresh legs. It took us the better part of  5 hours to get out onto the road. We managed to score a lift off the school bus driver who saved us weary trampers around 11km of road. We walked into Mercer tired but satisfied that we had made
It. Got a room at the motel associated with Podge's Place - awesome shower. Pizza and several beverages for dinner. Asked Majella to think about whether she needs a day off the feet, but Mercer is kind of like Marulen - not the sort of place that has a lot going on -so not the best place to take a rest stop in.

Woke up several times thinking about how we were going to make our way to Hamilton - at 2:30am got my iPad out and  tried to find a bus to take us and,  after hearing the train at 3:15,  got it out again to see whether there was a train. Didn't have any success. That leaves scoring a lift.

Pigeon xx

Day 30 - Hunua Falls to Upper Mangatawhiri Campsite (TA 687.5km)- 15.5km

I lost Majella today, seriously. We'd finally made made it off the Wairoa-Cossey track and I'd headed over the reservoir wall to get water as Majella had run out. Majella was right behind me cleaning her shoes at the disinfection station. I scrambled down the rocky embankment got the water, Majella wasn't at the table where I left my pack. I didn't think too much at the time cause I thought she may be off taking a photo or something. I filtered the water which took a little while but still no Majella. Maybe I was dreaming that I saw her at the boot cleaning station, maybe she was still at the lookout? I climbed back up the stairs - no Majella. Now I was getting a little concerned. Back down again, put my pack on and walked along the dam wall calling out her name -nothing. I was getting really anxious by now and called again - heard her. She was back near the picnic tables and now I was furious! Where the bloody hell had she been?

It turns out she had cleaned her boots and accidentally turned back the way we had come walked back up the stairs past the lookout and didn't twig that we had already been there! She hadn't been eating enough despite my nagging and had got the shakes just beforehand. I gave her a good lecture about eating properly as the trail was obvious and she shouldn't have got confused, but I wasn't angry anymore, just relieved.

The day had started well enough. The Massey track out of Hunua Falls was a lot of climbing but well formed and through beautiful forest. We then headed on to the Wairoa-Cossey track and the condition of the trail deteriorated to a muddy, slippery, rooty bog that we had to negotiate for 6km. It was tough and long and horrible. I was feeling shattered by the end of it and I am a lot more trail hardy than Gel. It sucked. So much for rejigging our plan to avoid the 'bog slog'!

We had planned to walk about 23km today but I didn't think we had it in us - another steep climb along the Wairoa Loop Track convinced me that we should pull up stumps at the
Mangatawhiri rather than try and push further. We had been walking 7 hours and only done 15km.

We aren't sure what to expect of the track tomorrow - our plan is to get out to the road and then try to get a ride to Mercer.  18km to the road out - in normal circumstances very doable. We have 6km road, then an unknown 6km bush - we hope, pray, wish not as muddy as today, then a further 6k road section until we hit a major road with the chance of a lift.

Fingers crossed for less mud

Pigeon xx

Day 29 Manakau Top 10 Holiday Park to Hunua Falls (TA 672 approx) - 33km (walked 20 odd)

I slept like a log - may have been the Nurofen, may have been the tiredness from the interrupted sleep last night. It had stopped raining but it was still cloudy which was good as it would be cooler. Majella was up and ready before me. She wasn't feeling the best - we'd already talked about shortening today - try to hit 26km. Hunua Falls was 33km and I thought it was too far - given how Majella was feeling and how hard the last two days had been for her.

The walk started of pleasantly through the Auckland Botanical Gardens and then through the suburbs before hitting the road to Clevedon - I wasn't looking forward to that road and I'd said to Majella that I would try to get us a ride. I haven't had much success with hitching on the road side. All my rides have been offered or have happened after I've spoken to a person in a cafe or similar. I turned around and noticed how far Gel had fallen behind and I prayed. I literally asked for help to get us a ride of God, of Murray and Leon (put in a good word for me please), of whoever might be listening.  We got to the road and the plan was to try and get a ride by standing just after the intersection, if we didn't get a ride, walk for half an hour and try again.

I stood with my thumb out trying to ooze 'I am not an axe murderer' vibes.  It didn't happen straight off but soon enough we had a lift! B(Ryan)- not sure which and his son Salvidor were on there way to Clevedon b(Ryan) cleaned out his back seat and we squeezed in. I was so grateful and thanked all the people and Gods I'd asked for help several times. The lift into Clevedon saved us 14km and a big climb. We stopped at a Deli for a coffee and I told Majella that we now had only 12km to go to Hunua falls which now was incredibly doable.

Bit of a road leg to start but it was on a country road that wasn't too busy so was picturesque and quiet pleasant. This led to the Wairoa River Track which was mostly fairly flat and easy going. It had a bit of mud but not really serious mud like I've had previously. Majella seemed to enjoy this track and took her time to stop and take photos. On the way a TA hiker called Lucas, from Czechoslovakia had caught us. He helped Majella adjust her pack so it sat better on her and was generally a nice fellow. He had been taking photos of all the hikers he had met, but his phone had died so we took one on mine. He wanted to give me his email address so I could send him the photo but we didn't have a pen handy(my brain must have been in low gear cause I could have put it in my phone). Lucas was going to leave it somewhere at the cross roads when he stopped for lunch, but when we got there we couldn't find anything.

Lucas, I hope you read this - thank you for your help!

We made it into the falls mid afternoon- super busy there with what seemed like half of New Zealand's population chilling and having a swim. I knew that other people had camped here but while it didn't seem to be prohibited, it didn't seem to be permitted either. We were waiting for the crowds to go but more people kept arriving so in the end we just set up camp. Nobody has kicked us out yet. Starting to get dark and I am writing this listening to the roar of the falls in the background. Very cool.

Pigeon xx

Guess what manner of creature this is?

Day 28 Ambury Park to Manakau Top 10 (TA 639.5) -26km

Didn't sleep that well last night. My tent is so noisy and the rain sounded like a percussion session all night. When it wasn't raining the moon came out which made my body think it was morning so I kept checking my watch only to find it was 2:30am or some other ridiculous time.

There was a break in the weather at about 5:30am so I started packing up. I could here movement from Gel so I suggested we pack up and head over to the Ambury Park Centre, find a verandah and cook our breakfast out of the rain. It didn't take too long to get our stuff together and the rain held off which was a bonus.

After breakfast we picked up the trail and followed it along the shoreline for about 8km. Just before we headed back onto the road we came to a galvenised gate. The notes and GPS said we were meant to go through it. The lock and the way it was wired up said 'no entry'.  The signage was also unclear so we kept going a little way along the path before it petered out. Back to the gate and climbed over - easy walk along the grass path to the road. Have no idea why it was wired shut!

Road section for a few kms before we stopped at a shopping centre. Majella had had enough of her 'stuff' and dumped a pile in the bin and sent a few more things home.  We bought ourselves a drink and it was getting a bit chilly so I put my hoody on. Majella decided that her green cardy, recently thrown in the bin, was just what she needed so she went fishing under the Happy Meals for the bag she had thrown out. Being a good friend, I helpfully took photos of the retrieval. Soo funny!

Back on the road (literally) for a hot, unpleasant slog before a bit of a reprieve in a reserve, then through an industrial estate with no trees or shade, another road leg, a bit more parkland and finally to the camp ground. All that bitumen is a killer and we both were feeling over it by the end.

We had booked a tent site, but luckily there was a cancellation and we were able to get a cabin. Just as we got our stuff inside it started to rain - thank you weather Gods for holding off!

My right leg is swollen again but used Nurofen as you can't buy magic pills over the counter in New Zealand.

Pigeon xx

.Day 27 Auckland City to Ambury Park (TA 613) about 23 km

A lot of people miss the Auckland leg, but I loved the Coast to Coast walk which took us through lovely park grounds, including Cornwall Park with its sheep right in the centre of the city and to the top of Mount Eden for the city views. We finished off with a walk around Onehunga Bay to Ambury Park where we were camping for the night. Ambury Park is a working farm and was a super cool place to stay the night. Lots of animals including two magnificent Clydesdales and some extra cute, if a wee bit iffy, piglets.
It's raining as I write this and is meant to rain most of tomorrow. At least we will be cooler. We both got a bit sunburnt and overheated today. Top marks to Majella though - long day 1 for her and a bit of a struggle at the end.

I went for a bit of a wind down stroll after we had set up and came back to her kneeling down with a very stern look on her face. I asked her what she was doing. 'Being ruthless' she said . She had piles of stuff out trying to work out what she could send home. I had tried to get her to be ruthless yesterday without much success. I told her I'd start with the pyjamas!

Pigeon xx